Himalayan Journals
Volume II

## CONTENTS

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Chapter XVIII

Arrangements for second journey into Sikkim — Opposition of Dewan — Lassoo Kajee — Tendong — Legend of flood — Lama of Silok-foke — Namtchi — Tchebu Lama — Top of Tendong — Gigantic oak — Plants — Teesta valley — Commencement of rains — Bhomsong — Ascent to Lathiang — View — Bad road — Orchids — Gorh — Opposition of Lama — Arrival of Meepo — Cross Teesta — Difficulties of travelling — Lepchas swimming — Moxa for sprains — Singtam — Grandeur of view of Kinchinjunga — Wild men — Singtam Soubah — Landslips — Bees’ nests and honey-seekers — Leeches, etc. — Chakoong — Vegetation — Gravel terraces — Unpleasant effects of wormwood — Choongtam, scenery and vegetation of — Inhabitants — Tibetan salute — Lamas — Difficulty of procuring food — Contrast of vegetation of inner and outer Himalaya — Rhododendrons — Yew — Abies Brunoniana — Venomous snakes — Hornets and other insects — Choongtam temple — Pictures of Lhassa — Minerals — Scenery.

Chapter XIX

Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier — Choice of that by the Lachen river — Arrival of supplies — Departure — Features of the valley — Eatable Polygonum — Tumlong — Cross Taktoong river — Pines, larches, and other trees — Chateng pool — Water-plants and insects — Tukcham mountain — Lamteng village — Inhabitants — Alpine monkey — Botany of temperate Himalaya — European and American fauna — Japanese and Malayan genera — Superstitious objections to shooting — Customs of people — Rain — Run short of provisions — Altered position of Tibet frontier — Zemu Samdong — Imposition — Vegetation — Uses of pines — Ascent to Thlonok river — Balanophora wood for making cups — Snow-beds — Eatable mushrooms and Smilacina — Asarabacca — View of Kinchinjunga — Arum-roots, preparation of for food — Liklo mountain — Behaviour of my party — Bridge constructed over Zemu — Cross river — Alarm of my party — Camp on Zemu river.

Chapter XX

Camp on Zemu river — Scenery — Falling rocks — Tukcham mountain — Height of glaciers — Botany — Gigantic rhubarb — Insects — Storm — Temperature of rivers — Behaviour of Lachen Phipun — Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas — View from mountains above camp — Descend to Zemu Samdong — Vegetation — Letters from Dorjiling — Arrival of Singtam Soubah — Presents from Rajah — Parties collecting arum-roots — Insects — Ascend Lachen river — Thakya-zong — Tallum Samdong village — Cottages — Mountains — Plants — Entomology — Weather — Halo — Diseases — Conduct of Singtam Soubah — His character and illness — Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama — Tungu — Appearance of country — Houses — Poisoning by aram-roots — Yaks and calves — Tibet ponies — Journey to Kongra Lama — Tibetan tents — Butter, curds, and churns — Hospitality — Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo — Magnificent scenery — Reach Kongra Lama pass.

Chapter XXI

Top of Kongra Lama — Tibet frontier — Elevation — View — Vegetation — Descent to Tungu — Tungu-choo — Ponies — Kinchinjhow and Chango-khang mountains — Palung plains — Tibetans — Dogs — Dingcham province of Tibet — Inhabitants — Dresses — Women’s ornaments — Blackening faces — Coral — Tents — Elevation of Palung — Lama — Shawl-wool goats — Shearing — Siberian plants — Height of glaciers, and perpetual snow — Geology — Plants, and wild animals — Marmots — Insects — Birds — Choongtam Lama — Religious exercises — Tibetan hospitality — Delphinium — Perpetual snow — Temperature at Tungu — Return to Tallum Samdong — To Lamteng — Houses — Fall of barometer — Cicadas — Lime deposits — Landslips — Arrival at Choongtam — Cobra — Rageu — Heat of climate — Velocity and volume of rivers measured — Leave for Lachoong valley — Keadom — General features of valley — Lachoong village — Tunkra mountain — Moraines — Cultivation — Lachoong Phipun — Lama ceremonies beside a sick-bed.

Chapter XXII

Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass — Moraines and their vegetation — Pines of great dimensions — Wild currants — Glaciers — Summit of pass — Elevation — Views — Plants — Winds — Choombi district — Lacheepia rock — Extreme cold — Kinchinjunga — Himalayan grouse — Meteorological observations — Return to Lachoong — Oaks — Ascend to Yeumtong — Flats and debacles — Buried pine-trunks — Perpetual snow — Hot springs — Behaviour of Singtam Soubah — Leave for Momay Samdong — Upper limit of trees — Distribution of plants — Glacial terraces, etc. — Forked Donkia — Moutonneed rocks — Ascent to Donkia pass — Vegetation — Scenery — Lakes — Tibet — Bhomtso — Arun river — Kiang-lah mountains — Yaru-Tsampu river — Appearance of Tibet — Kambajong — Jigatzi — Kinchinjhow, and Kinchinjunga — Chola range — Deceptive appearance of distant landscape — Perpetual snow — Granite — Temperatures — Pulses — Plants — Tripe de roche — Return to Momay — Dogs and yaks — Birds — Insects — Quadrupeds — Hot springs — Marmots — Kinchinjhow glacier.

Chapter XXIII

Donkia glaciers — Moraines — Dome of ice — Honey-combed surface — Rocks of Donkia — Metamorphic action of granite veins — Accident to instruments — Sebolah pass — Bees and May-flies — View — Temperature — Pulses of party — Lamas and travellers at Momay — Weather and climate — Dr. Campbell leaves Dorjiling for Sikkim — Leave Momay — Yeumtong — Lachoong — Retardation of vegetation at low elevations — Choongtam — Landslips and debacle — Meet Dr. Campbell — Motives for his journey — Second visit to Lachen valley — Autumnal tints — Red currants — Lachen Phipun — Tungu — Scenery — Animals — Poisonous rhododendrons — Fire-wood — Palung — Elevations — Sitong — Kongra Lama — Tibetans — Enter Tibet — Desolate scenery — Plants — Animals — Geology — Cholamoo lakes — Antelopes — Return to Yeumtso — Dr. Campbell lost — Extreme cold — Headaches — Tibetan Dingpun and guard — Arms and accoutrements — Temperature of Yeumtso — Migratory birds — Visit of Dingpun — Yeumtso lakes.

Chapter XXIV

Ascent of Bhomtso — View of snowy mountains — Chumulari — Arun river — Kiang-lah mountains — Jigatzi — Lhassa — Dingcham province of Tibet — Misapplication of term “Plain of Tibet” — Sheep, flocks of — Crops — Probable elevation of Jigatzi — Yaru-Tsampu river — Tame elephants — Wild horses — Dryness of air — Sunset beams — Rocks of Kinchinjhow — Cholamoo lakes — Limestone — Dip and strike of rocks — Effects of great elevation on party — Ascent of Donkia — Moving piles of debris — Cross Donkia pass — Second visit to Momay Samdong — Hot springs — Descent to Yeumtong — Lachoong — Retardation of vegetation again noticed — Jerked meat — Fish — Lose a thermometer — Lepcha lad sleeps in hot spring — Keadom — Bucklandia — Arrive at Choongtam — Mendicant — Meepo — Lachen-Lachoong river — Wild grape — View from Singtam of Kinchinjunga — Virulent nettle.

Chapter XXV

Journey to the Rajah’s residence at Tumloong — Ryott valley — Rajah’s house — Tupgain Lama — Lagong nunnery — Phadong Goompa — Phenzong ditto — Lepcha sepoys — Proceedings at Tumloong — Refused admittance to Rajah — Women’s dresses — Meepo’s and Tchebu Lama’s families — Chapel — Leave for Chola pass — Ryott river — Rungpo, view from — Deputation of Kajees, etc. — Conference — Laghep — Eatable fruit of Decaisnea — Cathcartia — Rhododendrons — Phieung-goong — Pines — Rutto river — Barfonchen — Curling of rhododendron leaf — Woodcock — Chola pass — Small lakes — Tibet guard and sepoys — Dingpun — Arrival of Sikkim sepoys — Their conduct — Meet Singtam Soubah — Chumanako — We are seized by the Soubah’s party — Soubah’s conduct — Dingpun Tinli — Treatment of Dr. Campbell — Bound and guarded — Separated from Campbell — Marched to Tumloong — Motives for such conduct — Arrive at Rungpo — At Phadong — Presents from Rajah — Visits of Lama — Of Singtam Soubah — I am cross-questioned by Amlah — Confined with Campbell — Seizure of my Coolies — Threats of attacking Dorjiling.

Chapter XXVI

Dr. Campbell is ordered to appear at Durbar — Lamas called to council — Threats — Scarcity of food — Arrival of Dewan — Our jailer, Thoba-sing — Temperature, etc., at Tumloong — Services of Goompas — Lepcha girl — Jews’-harp — Terror of servants — Ilam-sing’s family — Interview with Dewan — Remonstrances — Dewan feigns sickness — Lord Dalhousie’s letter to Rajah — Treatment of Indo-Chinese — Concourse of Lamas — Visit of Tchebu Lama — Close confinement — Dr. Campbell’s illness — Conference with Amlah — Relaxation of confinement — Pemiongchi Lama’s intercession — Escape of Nimbo — Presents from Rajah, Ranee, and people — Protestations of friendship — Mr. Lushington sent to Dorjiling — Leave Tumloong — Cordial farewell — Dewan’s merchandize — Gangtok Kajee — Dewan’s pomp — Governor-General’s letter — Dikkeeling — Suspicion of poison — Dinner and pills — Tobacco — Bhotanese colony — Katong-ghat on Teesta — Wild lemons — Sepoys’ insolence — Dewan alarmed — View of Dorjiling — Threats of a rescue — Fears of our escape — Tibet flutes — Negotiate our release — Arrival at Dorjiling — Dr. Thomson joins me — Movement of troops at Dorjiling — Seizure of Rajah’s Terai property.

Chapter XXVII

Leave Dorjiling for Calcutta — Jung Bahadoor — Dr. Falconer — Improvements in Botanic Gardens — Palmetum — Victoria — Amherstia — Orchids spread by seed — Banyan — Cycas — Importation of American plants in ice — Return to Dorjiling — Leave with Dr. Thomson for the Khasia mountains — Mahanuddy river — Vegetation of banks — Maldah — Alligators — Rampore-Bauleah — Climate of Ganges — Pubna — Jummul river — Altered course of Burrampooter and Megna — Dacca — Conch shells — Saws — Cotton muslins — Fruit — Vegetation — Elevation — Rose of Bengal — Burrampooter — Delta of Soormah river — Jheels — Soil — Vegetation — Navigation — Mosquitos — Atmospheric pressure — Effects of geological changes — Imbedding of plants — Teelas or islets — Chattuc — Salubrious climate — Rains — Canoes — Pundua — Mr. Harry Inglis — Terrya Ghat — Ascent to Churra — Scenery and vegetation at foot of mountains — Cascades.

Chapter XXVIII

Churra, English station of — Khasia people — Garrow people — Houses — Habits — Dress — Arms — Dialects — Marriages — Food — Funerals — Superstitions — Flat of Churra — Scenery — Lime and coal — Mamloo — Cliffs — Cascades — Chamærops palm — Jasper-rocks — Flora of Churra — Orchids — Rhododendrons — Pine — Climate — Extraordinaiy rain-fall — Its effects — Gardens of Lieuts. Raban and Cave — Leave Churra to cross the mountain range — Coal, shale, and under-clay — Kala-panee river — Lailangkot — Luculia Pinceana — Conglomerate — Surureem wood — Boga-panee river — View of Himalaya — Greenstone — Age of pine-cones — Moflong plants — Coix — Chillong mountain — Extensive view — Road to Syong — Broad valleys — Geology — Plants — Myrung — Granite blocks — Kollong rock — Pine-woods — Features of country — Orchids — Iron forges.

Chapter XXIX

View of Himalaya from the Khasia — Great masses of snow — Chumulari — Donkia — Grasses — Nunklow — Assam valley and Burrampooter — Tropical forest — Bor-panee — Rhododendrons — Wild elephants — Blocks of Syenite — Return to Churra — Coal — August temperature — Leave for Chela — Jasper hill — Birds — Arundina — Habits of leaf-insects — Curious village — Houses — Canoes — Boga-panee river — Jheels — Chattuc — Churra — Leave for Jyntea hills — Trading parties — Dried fish — Cherries — Cinnamon — Fraud — Pea-violet — Nonkreem — Sandstone — Pines — Granite boulders — Iron washing — Forges — Tanks — Siberian Nymphæa — Barren country — Pomrang — Podostemon — Patchouli plant — Mooshye — Enormous stone slabs — Pitcher-plant — Joowye — Cultivation and vegetation — Hydropeltis — Sulky hostess — Nurtiung — Hamamelis chinensis — Bor-panee river — Sacred grove and gigantic stone structures — Altars — Pyramids, etc. — Origin of names — Yandaca cœrulea — Collections — November vegetation — Geology of Khasia — Sandstone — Coal — Lime — Gneiss — Greenstone — Tidal action — Strike of rocks — Comparison with Rajmahal hills and the Himalaya.

Chapter XXX

Best voyage to Silhet — River — Palms — Teelas — Botany — Fish weirs — Forests of Cachar — Sandal-wood, etc. — Porpoises — Alligators — Silchar — Tigers — Rice crops — Cookies — Munniporees — Hockey — Varnish — Dance — Nagas — Excursion to Munnipore frontier — Elephant bogged — Bamboos — Cardiopteris — Climate, etc., of Cachar — Mosquitos — Fall of banks — Silhet — Oaks — Stylidium — Tree-ferns — Chattuc — Megna — Meteorology — Palms — Noa-colly — Salt-smuggling — Delta of Ganges and Megna — Westward progress of Megna — Peat — Tide — Waves — Earthquakes — Dangerous navigation — Moonlight scenes — Mud island — Chittagong — Mug tribes — Views — Trees — Churs — Flagstaff hill — Coffee — Pepper — Tea, etc. — Excursions from Chittagong — Dipterocarpi or Gurjun oil trees — Earthquake — Birds — Papaw — Bleeding of stems — Poppy and Sun fields — — Seetakoond — Bungalow and hill — Perpetual flame — Falconeria — Cycas — Climate — Leave for Calcutta — Hattiah island — Plants — Sunderbunds — Steamer — Tides — Nipa fruticans — Fishing — Otters — Crocodiles — Phœnix paludosa — Departure from India.

APPENDIX
INDEX

### LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS

Plate VI. View of Kinchinjunga from Singtam, looking north-westward.
Plate VII. Kinchinjunga from the Thlonok river, with rhododendrons in flower.
Plate VIII. Tibet and Cholamoo lake from the summit of the Donkia pass, looking north-west.
Plate IX. Kinchinjhow, Donkia, and Cholamoo lake, from the summit of Bhomtso, looking south; the summit of Chumulari is introduced in the extreme left of the view.
Plate X. The table-land and station of Churra, with the Jheels, course of the Soormah river, and Tipperah hills in the extreme distance, looking south.
Plate XI. The Bhotan Himalaya, Assam valley, and Burrampooter river, from Nunklow, looking north.
Plate XII. Seetakoond hill.

WOOD ENGRAVINGS

Fig. 1. Pandanus in the Teesta valley.
Fig. 2. Cane-bridge over the Lachen-Lachoong river, below Choongtam. Tukcham mountain is brought into the view, as seen from a higher elevation.
Fig. 3. Juniperus recurva, the weeping juniper.
Fig. 4. Lamteng village, with Tukcham in the distance.
Fig. 5. Black juniper and young larch.
Fig. 6. Tungu village, with yaks in the foreground.
Fig. 7. Women’s head-dresses—the two outer, Lepcha girls; the two inner, Tibetan women.
Fig. 8. Tibet marmot. Sketched by J. E. Winterbottom, Esq.
Fig. 9. Lachoong valley (looking south), larch tree in the foreground.
Fig. 10. Conical ancient moraines in the Lachoong valley, with Abies brunoniana and smithiana.
Fig. 11. Head and legs of Tibet marmot. Sketched by J. E. Winterbottom, Esq.
Fig. 12. Block of gneiss with granite bands, on the Kinchinjhow glacier.
Fig. 13. Summit of forked Donkia mountain, with Goa antelopes in the foreground; from 17,500 feet elevation.
Fig. 14. View of the eastern top of Kinchinjhow, and Tibet in the distance, with wild sheep in the foreground; from an elevation of 18,000 feet.
Fig. 15. Head of Chiru antelope, the unicorn of Tibet. From a sketch by Lieut. H. Maxwell.
Fig. 16. A Phud, or Tibetan mendicant. Sketched at Dorjiling by Miss Colvile.
Fig. 17. Tea (brick of), tea-pot, wooden cup, etc.
Fig. 18. Portrait of Aden Tchebu Lama. Sketched by Lieut. H. Maxwell.
Fig. 19. Silver chain and hooks, ornamented with turquoises, used to fasten women’s cloaks.
Fig. 20. Horns of the Showa stag of Tibet (Cervus wallichii). Sketched by Lieut. H. Maxwell.
Fig. 21. Rajah’s house at Tumloong, in the foreground the cottage in which Dr. Campbell was confined, with the Dewan’s retinue passing. This is partly executed from memory.
Fig. 22. Tibetan tobacco-pipe and tinder-pouch, with steel attached.
Fig. 23. Lepcha sepoys, the right hand figures, and Tibetan ones on the left.
Fig. 24. Dr. Falconer’s residence, Calcutta Botanic Gardens; from Sir L. Peel’s grounds, looking across the Hoogly.
Fig. 25. View in the Jheels of Bengal, with Khasia mountains in the distance.
Fig. 26. Living bridge, formed of the aerial roots of figs.
Fig. 27. Dewan’s ear-ring of pearl and turquoises.
Fig. 28. Waterfalls at Mamloo, with fan-palms.
Fig. 29. Kollong rock.
Fig. 30. Chela, on the Boga-panee river.
Fig. 31. Nonkreem village, with boulders of denudation.
Fig. 32. Bellows of iron smelters in the Khasia mountains.
Fig. 33. Old bridge at Amwee.
Fig. 34. Stones at Nurtiung.
Fig. 35. Dipterocarpus turbinatus, gurjun or wood-oil tree.

Title | Chapter XVIII